1993 Jeep Wrangler (YJ)

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(Yea, I know square headlights)


 

 

 

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  Well, after 2 weeks and 1 day I have my YJ back.  The transmission started having a shift problem, starting off in 1st, when in Drive, as well as the shift lever no longer having a positive detent feel.  Took the Jeep the the shop that rebuilt the transmission for me, and said the problems were covered under the warranty, but as I had done the removal and re-install before I'd have to pay for that.  Turns out I was glad I let them do it, as they had to pull and re-install the transmission three times!  Initially they found that the 2nd gear shift bad had one of the end brackets rivets give, and let the other end's part fall free.  Once that was fixed, the transmission was re-installed, only to have a leak in the front.  So out it came for the 2nd time, and no bad seals, but a lot of assembly lube was present, so every thing was checked and re-assembles and installed.  The leak was still present, further investigation showed that the back side of the flywheel was covered in fluid.  Indicating a crack/leak in the torque converter.  So out the transmission came for a third time, and a new torque converter was installed, as well as to be sure all was good in the pump, it was pulled and rebuilt again.  Now all seems good, picked it up today and except for a 2-3 shift flare that they believe will work out with use, it's back to running great.  The shifter was once again finding and I could feel the shift position indents'.  RJ at the trans shop said that he found the shift lever pivot arm had more play that it should and said I should replace the bushing.  I'd not noticed the play in the pivot when I rebuilt it Jeep, but pulled the linkage out and found the pivot point wore thru some, so out came it's pivot bracket, and found an oblonged hole.  So I welded and filed the shaft, then decided with the 1" body lift I'd drill a new hole about 1" higher than the old one to better level the pivot point.  Well, the shift arm then interfered wit the bracket.  So I welded up the old and new holes in the bracket and drilled a new one only ~1/2" higher, and clearance the bracket a little to ensure no interference.  It's all back in, and except for the slop in the government motors column, the shifter feels so much better than it ever has.  2013-10-16

  Installed a had throttle for off-road use.  2013-10-26







  Almost finished the on-Board-Air installation.  I've mounted a 1 gallon tank under the tub.  I also fabricated a bracket to hold the switch, T's, and fittings under the hood.  To keep the under hood quick connect port clean, I used a fitting with a pressure gauge, this also allows me to know what the pressure is in the system.  I also installed the ARB quick connect fitting on the rear of the Jeep behind the license plate.  This should keep is a little cleaner, and not in a potential high damage area.  Now to get the hoses from the compressor fabricated, and install the activation switch.  The only bad decision I think I've made, is the arming of the system, will be by a switch that grounds the pressure switch circuit.  If I'm not carful, I could leave the compressor on when the engine is off, running down the battery.  2013-10-27








  Got the on-board-air compressor hoses made and installed. The compressor works great, and with the hand throttle with the engine setting at ~2K rpm, it supplies plenty of air. Leaks down from about 115 psi to 90 in about two hours, so I have a small leak some place. I still need to install the arming switch and wire (will change to a power rather than grounding wire), as well as getting a inlet air filter.

Picked up a Ford 8.8 rear axle out of a 1998 Ford Explorer. It's outfitted with 3.73 LS gears, (code D4, a 3200# disc brake axle). I started stripping it, and opened up the case, and found the usual black stinky gear oil. No water, and not looking too bad inside. The gears all look good. There is however 0.050 in ring gear backlash (spec is 0.008-0.015), and about .012 in pinion fore aft play. Feels like almost no pinion bearing preload, so with the end play, I'll have to re-torque the pinion flange bolt. I'll also have to re-shim the ring gear to get it's backlash within specification. The limited slip clutches seems to be good and tight.

Now to some decisions and parts planning. I'll by new rotors, pads, calipers, hoses, etc... ( new proportioning vale and improved master cylinder) as well as of course clean and paint everything. I'll also cut off the old spring perches, as I'll need to realign them in both width and rotation to get the proper pinion angle. With staying with a spring under suspension, and not having to use pinion alignment shims, I'll only loose about 1/8" in rear height with the larger diameter axle tubes on the 8.8.

The question is, why 3.73's, why not 4.10's? My thoughts are with the automatic, and a 4.6L engine producing ~240 HP & 315 ft.lbs. of torque (33% more HP & 43% more Torque than stock) I should have plenty of power and torque multiplication. The stock YJ with 3.07 gears and tires (215/75R15) ran with a crawl ration of 20.46:1 and at 55MPH the engine was turning about 2,048RPM. With the 3.73's and the 33" tires, the crawl ration will be 24.86:1 and at 55MPH the engine would be spinning about 2,088RPM. So even without all my extra power I'll have a little better crawl ratio and slightly higher engine RPM. With a torque converter multiplier of 2 (single stator TC), my crawl ration would be 49.72 to compare to a manual setup. I've seen people say the best ration from as low as 50, to as high as 85, with a few wanting 100 or higher. My M has a ratio of 76.3:1. 4.1 gears would only give me a craw ratio of 27.32:1, while s3.73's with a 4:1 transfer case would yield 36.55:1 (very close to the effective ratio of my M).

So my thought is to stay with the 3.73's and if I need a slower crawl ratio, upgrade to a 4:1 low range transfer case. I'll also be looking to install a new set of 2" lift springs to give myself a little more ground clearance, I already have a 1" body, and 1/2" in boomerang shackles as well as liberal wheel well openings. I may even stretch the rear axle back about 1" with the new axle spring perches.

Thoughts?  2013-11-04

Parts List:
Brake Rotor - $64
BrakeBest Brakes Select Ceramic - Brake Pads - $46
Cardone Friction Choice - Brake Caliper - $74
BrakeBest Hardware/Hydraulics - Right Rear Brake Hoses - $26
BrakeBest Hardware/Hydraulics - Disc Brake Hardware Kit - $5
BrakeBest Brakes Select - Parking Brake Shoe - $23
BrakeBest Hardware/Hydraulics - Parking Brake Hardware Kit - $10
ZJ E-brake cables (drivers and passenger side) Mopar P/N 52008904 & 52008905 - $48
Driveshaft adapter: Spicer 2-2-1379 - $43
Flange bolts Ford P/N N800594-S100 (x4) - $10
03 TJ Rubicon (w/disc) proportioning valve P/N 5083808AA - $95
3/16" hard brake line about 40" & 18" - $12
Ford 8.8 Seals - ?
Skyjacker Leaf Spring for 2-2.5" Lift or Tuff Country 2 in. EZ-Ride Lift Kit - $326-489
Front Dana 30 3.73 Carrier - ?
Front Dana 30 3.73 Gears - ?
Front Dana 30 Seals - ?




  Spent a little time this morning doing the switch install and wiring.  I trimmed out the switch plate that held the hard top wiper/washer switches, and opened up the third hole where I had a small temporary driving light switch.  I then installed the three switches (one for compressor arming, and two for lights).  Next came the wiring.  I wired them so the dash lights activated the switch lower light, and I also switched the air compressor to arm with a power wire, rather than a ground wire (so I would not run the battery down).  Once the wiring was done, the switches were installed and tested.  They work great.  They are the same OTRATTW switches I used in my Dodge M37.  The left switch arms the Air Compressor, the right switch turns on my bumper mounted driving lights.  The center switch, is wired to under the hood, but currently doesn't do anything, I'll need to decide what additional lights I'll install to use it for.  2013-11-08


  I'd given the Jeep a quick wash cloth bath last week, so I took a new photo of it and the M together in the shop.  I've also started fabricating my rear tub mounted spare tire carrier.  It will be removable at the hinge pins, so I don't have to have it installed when wheeling, but can at least carry a spare when I'm doing a road trip.   2013-11-25








  Completed some more work on the spare tire carrier.  Need to weld in three close out plates and fabricate a latch/hold up on the drivers side.  I ended up adding a third bolt to each hinge to further strengthen the arm and help prevent hinge twist.  2013-12-02









  Finished the fabrication of the Spare Tire Carrier.  Fabricating the latch end was the last items.  Now to blast, prime and paint.  2013-12-05








  Picked up half a YJ/CJ hard top from a fellow MIJC member, that he'd picked up from another member.  I'll need to do a little work to it, extend the wings where the window was, and cut the lower leg back and trim it to fit over the tonneau cover.  But the big issue is my soft doors don't fit.  The door is too long, and does not properly follow the opening at the lower rear area.  2013-12-08






  Well, I decided to just cut and modify the existing upper soft door frames.  So I removed the cover, and started looking at what it would take.  Ended up removing rear portion of the wire frame and shortening it lengthwise by ~1", and lowering it.  I also modified the lower rear corner to better match the door opening on the hard top.  I also trimmed off the un-needed little wing on the lower portion of the hard top, they were there for a second bolt location, but with my Tonneau Cover, that bolt won't work.  The rear line I intend to clean up will match the door opening line/angle.  Now I need to get the old upper door covers re-trimmed and sewn back to fit the modified frames.  I also need to determine the best method of holding the front of the hard top to the window frame.  2013-12-09
  I used a couple of window latches to hold the front of the top to the windshield.  Not bad, but not as much distance between the two parts as is needed for a good fit.  I did drive the Jeep today, and with the doors sealing at the top and back, wow what a warmer nicer cold weather drive.  No more cold wind blowing thru the Jeep.  2013-12-27