1993 Jeep Wrangler (YJ)
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(Yea, I know square headlights)
The "Transmission Job"
|↓ Click the Image to Enlarge ↓|
||Well yesterday the Jeep Transmission gave up the battle, not gradually, but all at once. I knew it was not in good shape but didn't expect it to go all at once. I think it's actually the Torque Converter that bit the dust. I didn't make it home, but did cost the Jeep into my buddies Body Shop Parking Lot. I went back with the Trailer and brought the Jeep home to start the "Transmission Job". I will not only rebuild the tranny, but the motor and do the needed body repairs. I've looked at how I want to "tube" my front fenders. I plan on using 1" square tube rather than the normal round. It should go well with the YJ's square design. Made good progress and spent 7 hours on disassembly. 2012-08-29|
||Between yesterday and the few hours I got in today, I sure hate Torx Screws even more than I did when I did the Tub Swap on the CJ. Now I've for to go buy some new T27's and T45's. I've got the grill shell off, the Dash out, the back stripped (except one stubborn hinge) and everything disconnected from the tub, except the fuel take wires. I don't know who the contortionist was that designed the YJ's dash, but I sure do lie the CJ's dash even more. Just don't want to give up my defrosters to make the switch. I sure (know) I took some things off of the dash that I didn't need to get it out, but at least it's out and hopefully I will have a much easer job in getting it back in. The only things left before i remove the tub is the 10 body bolts, the fuel pump/gauge wires, and i believe an exhaust hanger. I'll do a little rear tub corner mount fixes before I pull the tub though. 1012-08-30|
||Started out today with a little examination of the rear tub mounts and the body repair needed. It looks like I will have to do the repair off the frame as the left rear tub mount has rusted so bad it's settled. Next I decided to do the start of the Fuel Pump Access Panel cut out. Based on others designs and some investigation I decided to cut mine out 7" wide and 7.5" long. The forward cut was at the "normal" 14" from the gate seal surface. However if I was to do it again, I'd cut it at 13-7/8" so as to miss cutting the forward tub hat section. I'll place some metal under the tub and rework the rear tub hat section so I can screw the panel back in place, providing future access to the fuel pump should it be needed. Next came the final disconnecting the tub bolts and a few last connections so I could remove the tub. I lifted the tub off using the engine hoist, just as I've done before with the CJ Tub Swap and Power Wagon. With the Tub off, next I tackled removing the drive shafts and transfer case. then came the removal of the wiring harness, man what a mess of routing around the engine compartment. After that I removed the radiator in preparation for starting the engine disassembly. It's taken about 17 hours to get to this point, but progress continues. 2012-09-01|
|Well, started the afternoon off by cleaning up the remaining transmission fluid that came out of the cooling lines. What a mess burnt tranny oil makes. Next came the engine disassembly. First the manifolds, and I'm glad I'm taking them off with the fenders out of the way. Next came the head. cylinder walls look good, but a some carbon build up on the pistons and heads/valves. Up to about 20 hours into the job now. 2012-09-02|
|Well, I pulled the Transmission and then the Torque Converter. If you move the TC around you can hear a rattle, and take a look inside the transmission hole, I see loose parts. So I'm sure the TC is shoot. I then pulled the Engine and finished disassembling it. WOW, were the Connecting Rod bearings shoot, and the crank was grooved. The cam looked like it was toasted and it's bearings were shoot as well. Good thing I didn't just fix the known problem, the head. I've loaded the block, head and intake to take to the machine shop for cleaning and inspection. I've also loaded up the Transmission and Torque Converter to take them to the shop as well. I'm now up to 24 hours of work into the job. 2012-09-04|
|Spending a few hours each of the past few days doing parts/fastener cleaning and removing a few last items from the frame. Frame is ready for power washing and then a few repairs. 2012-09-10|
||Now that the water ban has been lifted, I could roll the chassis out and power wash it clean. I've found a few more issues, some more sports to repair, and a bad front axle U-Joint. I've repaired both front frame rails where the grill shell rested and "wore" through, as well as the rear lower axle shock mount. I was pleased to see the inside of the frame rail looked decent, no major rust issues. I'll coat the inside with some special Eastwood frame coating before I'm done. 2012-09-20|
||I've finished the frame repairs, and have also tucked the rear of the fuel tank up 1". I also moved the forward fuel tank mounting point rearward 5/8". With the 1" body lift the tuck will help departure angles, and moving the front rearward I should gain more differential clearance. Next is to install the necessary brake lines and then apply some paint in preparation for the engine and tranny when they are done. 2012-09-22|
||With the new front brake lines in, I've created new lower mounting points to allow the flexible lines more slack for axle articulation. I've now also bent and ran new front brake lines. As soon as I get the new rear flex line I'll install it and replace one smashed line on the rear axle. I still want to replace the Master Cylinder to Proportioning Vale lines, once I get the necessary line fittings. 2012-10-02|
||In addition to picking up the Engine Block, Head and Pistons from the machine shop I got the frame painted with the Chassis Black (still a little wet in these pictures). I'll still need to pull the wheels and paint the outer portions of the axles, but I can start re-assembling the drive train, that is as soon as it's all together. Now to start the Engine Assembly. With the repairs, parts cleaning and frame painting I've added another 26 hrs to the job, so I'm now up to 50 hours. 2012-10-03|
|While I had some time waiting on the engine parts, I installed the new Shocks, Steering Stabilizer, and started the On-Board-air conversion of the Sanden Compressor. I'm following JP Magazines method from their July 2012 Issue. 2012-10-12|
|For my 4.6L HO Stroker Engine Build, go HERE. Started 2012-10-16|
Well, after getting the engine push rods ordered, and taking care of some
other items I got started this afternoon on installing the engine,
transmission, fuel tank and finish the rear brake lines. However I
could not get the torque converter to install into the transmission.
It would not engage the larger splined shaft. The owner of the
transmission shop is stopping by hopefully tomorrow to install the torque
converter. If he gets it installed great, but I suspect he won't.
I suspect its the wrong torque converter, as the one I got has
splines, and is for the 30RH with Lock-up, and mine has
splines (as best as I can count) and is a not a lock-up transmission.
I didn't get the brake lines done, as I damaged the new hose, so I've
ordered a new one. 2012-10-18
UPDATE: Yep, RJ Tried to install it, couldn't. So he counted and came up with 27 splines, so he made a call, and this time got the correct information, and will have the replacement Torque Converter here on Monday. 2012-10-19
||Got the correct Torque Converter and Engine Push Rods today. So the Transmission is now on the engine and bother are bolted into the Jeep again. 2012-10-22|
||Not as much progress as I should have this afternoon. I did pickup the replacement exhaust manifold stud, and installed it. I also finished the brake line work. Ended up making both rear axle brake lines rather than just the one that was partially damaged. I also replaced the two brake lines between the Master Cylinder and the Proportioning Valve. Connected the front hoses next, then proceeded to bleed the system. I have the worst luck bleeding brakes, and this time is no exception. The power brake bleeder, as usual isn't as good as they claim. It leaks, at least this time it didn't leak so bad I couldn't get the brakes bleed. The only bleeding valve I can't get to open is the one on the drivers front side, may have to replace the caliper before it's over, bit will wait till I can drive the Jeep and see how the brakes are working. Next I proceeded to assemble the A/C compressor into the On-Board Air Compressor. I'm using a 450ºF Synthetic great by John Deere inside to keep it lubricated. It's a little work to not only install the pistons back in properly, but to get enough grease in and all the remaining parts installed. But it's all together and ready for the coil and pulley next. 2012-10-23|
||Well, after a couple days of yard work, I got a little more done on the Jeep. I've installed the rest of the front of the engine and the radiator. I also started fitting the exhaust and welded in the Air/Fuel Ration O2 Sensor bung as well. The grill is installed just to keep the radiator out of the fan while I break-in the cam when I start the engine up soon. I've also got the engine wiring harness mostly installed as well. Next the transfercase, and the body wiring harness and some fluids before I start it. 2012-10-25|
||Just a little work this afternoon. I prepped and Installed the transfer case, that is all except the lower mounting nut. I'll have to unbolt the drive train and jack it up off the skid plate to access it enough to tighten it down. The transfer case is one I picked up from a fellow MIJC member that had a SYE kit already installed. The read drive shaft needs a little cleaning and a new U-Joint, but should work fine. With the Jeep setting as is, I have 3" of the slip joint engauged. I also mocked up a little more of the exhaust. I will have to finish the tail pipe after the body is installed, and it looks to need a little adjustment and the end will have to be modified to keep it from getting destroyed while hanging out the rear. 2012-10-26|
||Spent some time this afternoon, welding the exhaust extension, tightening up the remaining transfercase bolt, filled the transfercase and radiator. I then proceeded to pull the necessary internal wiring harness, gauge clusters, and steering wheel and hooked them up on the chassis. It took a little to discover I missed connecting the smaller firewall connector, but once it was connected I had full power and could crank the engine over. I primed the fuel system, and will do one more check over before I roll it out and try to start it tomorrow afternoon. 2012-10-28|
First, a big THNAKS to Bill Gangloff (lucdog). Bill drove down from Peoria
to see me start the engine up. He spent more time on the road than he did
here, but am I glad he came. Turns out I apparently did get the distributor
180º out of time. Either when I did the initial install, or when I primed
the lifters, or when I pre-lubed the engine. Doesn’t matter what, I did it.
After it didn’t initially start, we checked for fuel and spark and had both. We re-checked all the connections, and tried a few more times before checking the timing. With the use of an engine pressure tester, we determined it was out 180º. So I proceeded to correct it. Still didn’t start, so after some more checking, we discovered I was one tooth off on the distributer timing. Once more I pulled and re-installed the distributor, and we tried again. She started up and ran great.
Now we cranked up the RPM to the required 2,000 RPM, and started looking and checking everything over. Had a momentarily over 210º water temperature that caused us to lower the RPM, but it corrected itself and was likely an air bubble, as it didn’t happen again.
About half way through the cam break in, the engine developed a miss. The Air Fuel Ration started jumping with each miss. I suspect it might be due to the old stock spark plugs, and will install a new set of lower temperature plugs when I change out the break in oil and see if it returns. If it does I’ll have to start checking the new injectors and plug sires for problems. Almost everything is new, including the distributor, cap, wires, injectors, sensors, etc… So with the new Plugs it must be a faulty part, something I did incorrectly.
While it was running did add additional transmission fluid, and will likely need a little more when I get a chance to run it through the gears. It now has 9.5 quarts, and I believe with the deep pan should hold 10+ quarts.
It’s great to have it running with all the work and parts, and after the oil and plug change and one little exhaust change, I should be ready to start working on the tub.
Well after yesterdays engine start and cam break-in, it was time to change
the oil and install the new Spark Plugs. I elected to do the break-in
with the old plugs figuring there might me some oil or other burn off that I
didn't want to harm the new plugs. Not sure it was a wise idea, but I
did it. As you can see in the first picture, Cylinders 3 & 4 (and
partially #6) either weren't cleaned enough, or have problems and likely
caused the miss the engine developed during the break-in. In the
second picture you can see the cooler heat range NGK BKR6E-11 (RC9YC4) Spark
plug next to one of the old Champion 4412's. (RC12LYC). While I had
the plugs out I also did a room temp wet engine compression test. The
results are as follows:
1 - 183psi
2 - 182 psi
3 - 186 psi
4 - 183 psi
5 - 185 psi
6 - 183 psi
All in all only a 4 psi delta, and what I believe to be good numbers for a 9'ish Compression Ration Engine. I also checked (once I knew you could and how) checked for any Engine codes, and only found batter disconnect code which was expected. I changed the engine oil and filter and added the ZDD Plus Oil Additive. I rechecked the manifold torques, and noticed two of the exhaust pipes had a sign of what looked like oil run oil of the pipe to flange area. It's probably from the small oil leak that developed on the valve cover while running during the break-in. While the engine was running (break-in) I re-torqued the valve cover and believe I have the oil leak stopped. I also removed and extended the exhaust pipe to get the muffler to clear the skid plate, and further investigated the stock tail pipe position. I'll probably take it back, and end up having one made that fits better and is 2.5", not 2.25" in diameter. Now with the gas tank straps that arrived this afternoon, I can paint and install them and have the chassis done with the exception of drive shafts. 2012-10-30
||Took advantage of probably one of the last nice days to wash off the weekends mud off the M37, and roll out the YJ to start and run the engine again. The intent was to let the engine run a good 30 minutes and see if the miss returned, and after almost 50 minutes, it did not. The engine still runs and sounds strong, but when you rev it the Air/fuel ration jumps around it it blows out some smoke. It still smells rich, but the A/F ration says different. Fluid levels are all holding steady and looking clean. 2012-11-01|
|For my YJ Body Repair and Modifications, go HERE. Started 2012-11-02|
|For my YJ Body Repair and Modifications, go HERE. Started 2013-01-07|
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